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Here’s a big thank you to the breakfastguy blog for dining with us and for the wonderful post that follows.

Sunday Brunch at Nel Centro

I’m not going to lie to you. In fact, I’ll open with two stone-cold truths.

1, I was invited by the publicist for Nel Centro to have a Sunday brunch in exchange for me writing about them. There’s your disclaimer. I was going to do it, anyway, but I do enjoy free stuff.

2, As soon as I sat down in the place, I loved it. And I would have, no matter who was paying. It’s a beautiful place, it had no line when I was there, and it’s a perfect example of something that I think makes Portland cool: namely, it used to be the diner of a Days Inn, which is now the super-cool Hotel Modera, with a bioswale and a “living wall” and an outdoor gas fire pit.

And the first thing on the Sunday brunch menu is Potato, Fennel and Leek Puree. Right below that is Warm Hazelnut Crusted Goat Cheese with Peppers. All this in a funky old downtown hotel! In fact, as soon as I looked at the menu I whipped out my iPod Touch (they have free WiFi) and tweeted, “I am in love with the menu @nelCentro!”

Oh, and I got a fantastic cappuccino (with Caffe Umbria) from an actual Italian, who is actually named Giovanni. When I asked about a muffin or pastry while I wait, he said he’d check with the “sweet girl” to see what she has.

So we already have an Italian, sustainability running rampant, a great-looking menu, and a Sweet Girl doing something in the kitchen. So yes, I love this place. Soon, my host for the morning came in, and the Sweet Girl’s creations came out: a still-warm brioche bun and a moist cherry-walnut scone. At that point, I was done for.

According to my host, among the place’s virtues are that the tables are made from an old Willamette Valley barn, and a countertop is made with EcoTop, whose website says is “a 50/50 blend of FSC certified post consumer recycled paper and rapidly renewable bamboo fiber, bound with a new 100% water-based system.” I don’t even know what all that means!

I also don’t know what the cuisine of the Riviera is, except that I take Nel Centro’s word that it’s what they serve. Apparently, the people of the Riviera like to have Pugliese French Toast with Apple Compote and Crème Fraiche, Poached Eggs on Grilled Polenta with Cured Pork Loin and Sage Hollandaise, an Individual Quiche Lorraine, various pizzas, and a Lamb Burger with Peppers and Feta Cheese. So they eat well, apparently.

In fact, I take David Machado’s word on pretty much everything related to cooking and restaurants. He’s won all sorts of awards, was the opening chef at Pazzo Ristorante and Southpark, is the owner/chef at the Mediterranean restaurant Lauro Kitchen, does the same at the Indian place Vindalho, and as of 2009 runs Nel Centro. He seems to be what you’d call a rock star.

He joined us for a bit at the table, and I’d love to offer some pithy quotes. But for one thing, a lot of it was a restaurant version of inside baseball – nothing gossipy, just tales of crazy chefs and busy shifts and opening too early after closing too late. He seems like a really nice guy who knows how to run a successful restaurant. And I plan to have him on my radio show February 5th, so stay tuned.

Another thing was that I was too wrapped up in the food to take any notes – first the potato-fennel-leek soup, which was perfect, then the Florentine Omelet with Spinach, Mushrooms and Mornay Sauce. For my fellow ignorami, I looked up Mornay Sauce on Wikipedia: it’s a Béchamel (scalded milk and roux) sauce with white cheeses added. I can say with some authority that, when poured over a perfectly-cooked omelet of fresh spinach and mushrooms, and paired with chip-sliced potatoes sautéed with peppers and onions, it’s damn good. And at Nel Centro, it’s only $11.

So here are another couple of truths: sitting there eating for free and chatting with the successful owner/chef of a fashionable downtown restaurant, it was easy to feel a lot of gratitude for my chosen profession. On the other hand, I could also step back and see myself, and a lot of other happy people, in a very cool restaurant with great food and no lines, right in the middle of my hometown, with the new MAX line going right by the door, plus an Italian guy making great drinks and a Sweet Girl in the kitchen working magic. So yes, I love that place!

Nel Centro – that’s Italian for “in the center” or downtown – is at 1408 SW 6th. They are also on Facebook and Twitter (@nelCentro). 503-484-1099.

Brunch (menu) served Sunday only, 8 to 2. Breakfast (much lesser menu) M-F 6:30-10:30 and Sat 7:30-11:30.

Seating for 130 plus some private rooms, big groups easy. Great patio in summertime. Valet parking or pay on the street – but it’s free Sunday until 1 p.m.