Williamette Week: Nel Centro is Excellent, Moist, Delicious
Today, the Williamette Week issued its Restaurant Guide for 2009. Without further ado, here’s their take.
Restaurateur David Machado’s latest enterprise, the house restaurant for the recently renovated Hotel Modera, is a departure from Lauro and Vindalho, his two casual, moderately priced restaurants in Southeast. Nel Centro occupies prime corner real estate in the heart of downtown’s banking district, with full-length windows looking out on the Unitas Plaza and the hotel’s own lovely garden courtyard. The 150-seat dining room, designed by Holst Architecture, is stunning: strips of chocolate brown paneling and white columns accented with blond wood and gleaming glass light fixtures. The large open kitchen prominently features a large rotisserie (fire is a Machado signature) that turns out excellent roast chicken and lamb. The menu, inspired by the food of Nice and Genoa, is a notch more expensive than Lauro’s—entrees average $21—but equally broad in appeal. The pastas are excellent, meats moist and desserts delicious. And don’t skimp on wine—David Holstrom’s wine list is exceptional.
Order this: Anything rotisserie. The half chicken and panzanella salad is a huge, hearty entree.
Best deal: Ravioli Niçoise with butter and Parmesan ($15). Rich, beefy perfection.
I’ll pass: The salt-cod croquettes are fine, but don’t compare to the fritters at Laurelhurst Market or Toro Bravo.
Ben Waterhouse